Day 220 of Indian places giving you smiles – the unknown hill village of Thembang
After a full day of driving through the treacherous mountain roads of Arunachal pradesh, we reached our final destination for the night- the quaint village of Thembang which has very little impact of urbanization. This was a chance for us to experience the simple lifestyle of the Monpa community. We were treated to a welcome dance and dinner of some home cooked food. Our group had to stay at different homes of the locals, a unique experience to live in their simple basic residences.
Thenbang –- Munna camp – Dhirang Dzong – Sangti valley – Thembang
The sound of 3 cocks crying continuously at 3 a.m. in the morning. Climbing down the steps and walking a distance in the middle of the night to visit an Indian style toilet. Covering ourselves from head to toe to keep away the chill factor. Well the simple locals were physically much tougher than us urban delicate darlings.
At 4.30 a.m. a few of us crossed fields and fences to reach a vantage point. Was happy to see heaps of corn stored in the open. We waited to see the dawn lit mountains as they were touched for the first time in this eastern corner of India by the rays of the rising sun.
The area around the Tembang village had a wide altitudinal range, providing an opportunity to experience the temperate eco-system and enjoy views of the states highest peak Gorichen. We looked at local insects, flowers and fruits as we walked down 13 kms to Munna Camp where we visited the Sangey Ling Gonpa. The eight symbols of prosperity on its walls and the other colourful flags and statues around it gave us an indication of the influence of Buddhist culture in this region.
Thembang was once ruled by the grandson of the King of Patola and we then visited the ruins of the fortifications. We also interacted with the shy local women. Corn was grown predominantly in this area and decoratively tied up at all places. The men were mostly away in cities or drunk most of the time and it was only the women who I saw doing hard physical work throughout the day. I tried to pound the dried corn with a heavy stick and realized how spoilt we had become with modern gadgets.
After lunch we drove to the Dirang Dzong –an old basti with its stone and wooden architecture. The excited kids got a lesson in cleanliness from us, as I insisted that one of them wash the dried-up-snot-covered face. The 400 hundred old jail in the centre of the basti probably has not seen much change over the years!
The bad roads were no deterrent compared to the beauty of our next destination – the Sangti valley. We walked and interacted with the local women and had tea at a home in this picturesque village, nestled besides the Sangti river.
We tried to be adventurous for dinner and asked for our host for local fare. We were surprised with a black lump of ‘Raagi Muddhe’, greens and stinking yak cheese! We then insisted that we be served with the usual dal rice, roti, potato bhaji combination. We did not know that this was going to be our staple vegetarian meal for all the nine days of our trip!
Simple people, simple living…a rare chance to go back to basics.
Thembang-we will always remember your happy simplicity!
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