Day 227 of Indian places giving smiles – Lanjigarh from the poor district of Kalahandi in Orissa
In 2013 I had just read a newspaper article in HT today, which talked about the Company versus tribal issues at a place called Lanjigarh in interior Orissa. Just a month ago, I was filled with a sense of excitement and uncertainty when I was told to go on an official assignment to do training workshops for a corporate based in a remote part of Orissa called Lanjigarh. This district of Kalahandi had the dubious distinction of being one among the 3 most backward and poorest districts of Asia! It was also the seat of intense Maoist rebel activity. Luckily I did not know much of this before I went there…for me it was just another opportunity to explore an unexplored part of India.
As I looked outside the window of my train, chugging outside Kantabanji station along the far-flung part of Orissa, I realized that we were surrounded by miles and miles of rich forest area. I had never heard of my station called Ambodala in my life and my co-passengers told me that the train would stop there for only 2 minutes. I was only one of 3 persons who alighted on this almost empty station. There was no sign of any porter around and I had to carry my 2 heavy bags all by myself on the deserted over bridge…yet I did not feel alone…I was continuously praying to my Lord, and was emboldened by the protection of Sai Baba around me. Still it was a huge relief to spot the Company car and driver who drove me for 27 KM s through the dark night from Ambadola railway station to the safety of the Vedanta Company guest house at Lanjigarh.
Before dawn next morning I set out for my morning walk, but the security guard asked me not to venture out of the gates due to the unpredictable nature of the tribals around the place. So I explored the mini-township within the confines of the compound wall. I saw the beautiful gardens, the hostels, residences, club house, school, shops, hospital etc. all belonging to a comfortable modern day living style.
However very early in the next morning I wanted to get out of the comfort zone and experience the natural beauty of Lanjigarh as it really was. I prayed for protection at the Hanuman temple outside the gates, and the ventured away from the tarred road into a dusty pathway in between the wild plants and shrubs. The sight of the open sky, the sound of chirping birds, the smell of the wet soil, the touch of some thorny plants ignited all my senses and I felt a lovely connection with nature.
Before I realized it I found myself right inside a tribal settlement, with a huge group of onlookers and we both were surprised and amused by the presence of each other so early I the morning. An old lady in a beautiful bright blue shawl took me to her home, the daughter-in-law was still brushing her teeth. But her grand-daughter who was studying in a local school could understand my Hindi language and agreed to my request for a photograph!
Soon I had an excited bunch of woman and children around me, who were extremely happy to see their own pictures in my camera. In that one moment I discovered the power of finding simple childlike happiness in any situation, provided we can view it with a sense of wonderment! Even though these simple people were grown up, their eyes seemed to be open wide with glee just like an infant who is surveying the world for the first time. I kept asking for directions and realized that I had strayed quite far from the Company Township and I had to walk much faster to reach the Company gates!
It was worth interacting with some of the tribals on one side of the gates at a place called Jagannathpur. So in the next morning I decided to interact with the tribals on the other side of the gates, walking towards the district of Rayagada. Young girls were collecting water from the public hand pumps…I had not seen
that for many years. At an age when they should have been playing or going to school they were carrying water on their heads. The stark poverty of the area just hit me. I say a woman was cooking what could probably be the only meal of the day on a large vessel on firewood. I saw a bunch of ladies bathing together in the small pond…as I stared in amazement at a scene that was only shown in movies…one of the ladies cheekily said to me ..washroom…washroom! I will never take the privacy of my own washroom for granted ever again!
I was surrounded by the Niyamgiri Hills, which is considered very sacred by the locals. I was surprised to see around 20 young boys getting ready to play cricket at 7 30 am in the morning. I spoke to one of the boys who told me that they have no jobs to do in the Company, and they have opposed the mining of Bauxite from the local Niyamgiri Hills. The Company officials later told me that these boys are not ready to learn and change their status from unskilled laborers to a skilled task force, so how can they be absorbed inside such a professional set-up?
In the next evening I went to the local Lanjigarh market place and purchased a simple cotton sari with floral print made by the locals…this was my own small way for encouraging the fledgling economy of the place. The district is a rich land in terms of art and craft.
My driver showed me an almost dilapidated building with an artistic façade that actually used to be the palace of the local king! In fact around 10 years ago, this was the only ‘pucca’ building that was available for the pioneering Company officials to stay before modern construction started in this area. Imagine how secluded this place was from civilization, before the Company township came up here. There are beautiful carved temples also next to it. The Vamsodhara River was the source of water in this otherwise dry area.
It is probable that because I am a person from a complex city like Mumbai. I am able to admire the peace and serenity of a tribal area like Lanjigarh. But after spending 5 days in this place. I had enough of its quietness and was longing to come back to the noise and madness of Mumbai! It was another tense moment when the electricity at Ambodala station went out and I just about managed to catch my return train in pitch darkness at 2 a.m. in the morning.
Enough of Lanjigarh adventure and memories to muse about. Each place is different from the other. Wow- India!
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