Bliss at Thimpu
We drove into Thimpu at night as I just opened my sleepy eyes to see a very impressive entrance gate saying Welcome to Thimpu.
As we looked outside our vehicle window the first thing that struck me in the dark night was the traditional styled decorative artwork on the windows and facades of the modern looking buildings. Even throughout the shopping area of the modern city centre, the traditional looking buildings caught my attention as also the silence of the night inspite of it being just past 8pm. I can’t imagine such other silent capital in the world.
We checked into our well lit up hotel and went straight to the vegetarian restaurant as it was closing by 9pm. We ordered our first authentic Bhutanese meal of the trip with soup, red rice and chilly datsi a tasty cheese based dish.
After almost 19 hours of traveling I was just waiting to get into a horizontal position on the comfortable bed and get some rest for the night.
After next morning’s normal breakfast, we set out for our first sightseeing visit to the Chorten memorial built in 1974 in memory of the third King of Bhutan. This religious place of worship with its impressive Tibetian styled golden spiral is filled many local aged devotees moving the giant prayer wheels, or holding the small circular prayer wheels and going around in circles around the main structure. The white exterior was surrounded with gardens and colourful entrance gates, with images of their deities of compassion, protection and power.
On the ground floor we were welcomed by a serene Buddha image and photos of the third King and his family. On the first floor we saw richly sculpted images facing all four sides of wrathful looking deities and their female consorts, who are supposed to destroy the 8 evil influences in humans.On the next floor we again saw sculptures and paintings which are supposed to depict the teachings of their holy masters.
Only my son was able to go to the top floor exterior terrace to see a view of the city. We then walked around the complex and saw an old man sitting in bliss with many pigeons clamouring around his body. This was my first realization that the Bhutanese people seem to be at bliss most of the time.
The next stop was at Buddha point, the highest place in Thimpu from where you could gets a birds eye view of almost every corner of the city. Our family insisted on climbing the almost 100 steps in the hot sun, so that they view of the huge golden 53metres Buddha makes the effort completely worth it!
As we stood in front of the shining golden images of Buddha and the female deities around him, I wondered at the huge amount of faith that accompanies such giant tributes to religious images. Even inside the Buddha point structure, we were surrounded by countless miniature Buddhist images and massive Buddha paintings too. As we again came down the steps to a spectacular view of Thimpu city, we felt blessed for this connection with nature.
Our next stop was at the institute of Zorig chusim or popularly known as the painting school. This place offers long courses to learn the 13 popular traditional crafts of Bhutan. We saw the steps in detail how students learn to draw, colour, paint or embroider the traditional patterns that we see all over in the exterior and interior of buildings in Bhutan. A bonus for us was to see the kings sisters daughter, a member of the royal family pass next to us at the premises.
We then went to the gate of the traditional food museum and saw how an ancient bamboo and mud wall was made. We went with excitement to the museum gift shop and only later I realised that we missed out seeing the actual traditional food museum itself!
Lunch was at a Bhutanese place that was popular with the local office going crowd. We vegetarians tried some local greens and cheese item called saag days and a cream and butter curry with red rice and a kind of buttermilk. The butter tea was terrible but the accompanying tangy powdered spices added a zest to the new taste of cuisine.
It was time to visit another monastery on top of a hill that is very popular with parents of new born children – the 12th century old Changangkha Lhakhang monastery. We saw
parents carrying a new born who had come here to get an auspicious names.Also we saw cute children come here to get blessings their from the protector deity Tamdrin
After a brief rest at the hotel we went to just see the local made products at the handicraft market.
After the government offices close in the huge fortress like complex of the Tashichho Dzong, we got tickets for an evening guided tour of this place. It is the main centre for both administrative activity as well as religious activity in Bhutan and also has the private residence of the existing 5th King of Bhutan whom the people love very much.
As we marvelled at the architecture of the variety of structures inside the complex,including a tall observation tower, we were told that many parts were renovated due to fires or earthquakes. We saw the monks gathering for their evening prayer and understood the detailed explanation of the different aspects of their beautiful prayer hall.
On the other side of the place we also saw the National Assembly, building called the SAARC building.
After a hectic day of sightseeing it was time to relax for dinner at a local restaurant, which seemed to be having a private birthday party. We had an excellent conversation with local guests one of whom was a private secretary to the royal grandmother! As we watched both the children and others laughing and enjoying each others company, I realised why this countrys people were considered to have the highest happiness quotient in the world!
A board game for family bonding was the perfect end to day 1 at Thimpu.
Our day 2 at Thumping was when we got a true experience of family bliss. We started by visiting the ancient Cheri Monastery, also called Chagri Dorjeden Monastery. It was this place from where in 1623 was established the first monastic order in Bhutan. The monastery site, is supposed to be the place that was first visited by Padmasambhava in the 8th century. I loved the high spiritual energy feel of this place, and sent almost an hour in silence inside the colourful prayer hall, in the compound and in the chanting hall just soaking up the bliss of the place. We saw a monk carrying two full cans of water and this is considered a very lucky omen. Instead of prayer wheels in the outer walls, I saw hundreds of images of the Buddha with different hand poses, depicting his past, present and future forms. It was a blissful start to a blissful day.
We then went to the central post office museum and got a thorough understanding of the country by its stamps, the history of postal runners, the flowers, the animals, the royalty, the vision for overall happiness of people.. Bhutan is the only country in the world, where the gross national happiness GNH index is measured instead of the materialistic related GDP (gross development product) Also it was an amazing experience to create a set of personalized stamps that we could post to around the world from the local post box.
It was time for some local shopping of ladies wear called Kira, hand made bags, magnets, and even a hand painted mandala.
We then went to the local textile museum and wondered at the huge effort that goes into weaving a beautiful piece of local clothing.
But more importantly my daughter got suddenly escorted with the loving hand of an old lady straight to a dining room where we were treated to a tasty vegetarian Bhutanese lunch along with the local staff. This unexpected gesture of kindness and hospitality from the local is something our family will always cherish for years to come.
It was time for relishing some more local food at Momo house, for some of the juiciest momos that I have tasted in my life.
After lunch, it was time to see the national animal of Bhutan at the Royal Taiken Reserve. We saw this animal for the first time which seemed like a cross between a goat, a bull and the hairy yak.
The local supermarket was a must visit place for a lovely stole with the 8 lucky Buddhist signs.
In the evening we visited the clock tower in the city centre and did some more local clothes shopping at bargain prices.
We ended the day with a taste of the Thimpu night life at Mojo Park, a place owned by my sons friend. Laughing, singing and dancing to a live band, is a simple pleasure that our family enjoys doing together
Thumping, thank you for the blissful smiles you gave us.
So in 2018, do notice these simple smiling moments.Have a smiling year!
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