When I had come some time ago to Dubai I initially stayed near the Al Fahidi Metro station. In the heat of the June’14 sun, I would explore the whole of the Bur Dubai area on foot, soaking in the Indian feel of the place!
And one evening I was happy to see some greenery around the Al Fahidi roundabout. As I was searching for the Hindu temple, I lost my way and found myself in a very quaint neighbourhood. Because of the extreme hot weather, there was no sign of any people in the area. I prayed to God for my safety and decided to explore the deserted looking place. I was in for a beautiful surprise and felt as if I was transported me to ancient Arabic times, with narrow alleys and old fashioned houses with carved wooden balconies.
The heat of the sun was getting on to me, (those days I used neither goggles, nor umbrellas, nor sun screen), so I boldly entered the first open door that I saw. This was the heritage house No. 13 which also doubles up as an art gallery. There was free chocolate for me at the entrance but even more exciting was the open courtyard with seating arrangements. The lone caretaker seemed busy in his own world as I browsed through the many paintings on the wall of Arabian women in different moods captured by the artist, Nahed Ghorayeb, another Arabian woman! What a lovely surprising place to visit in the evening.
I later discovered that this place was previously called the Bastakiya because of the ancient Iranian traders from Bastak. I had marvelled at the many wind towers in this place when I was here as a tourist with my mother in 2002. The wind tower is a unique ancient Arabian technique that traps the speedy winds at high levels and brings the cool air to the lower levels of the house, probably the first form of air conditioning in those days!
I kept coming back again and again to this place which seemed to belong to a different world as compared to the hustle and bustle of the other streets of Bur Dubai. The Al Fahidi district is the largest concentration of traditional houses in Dubai which have been converted to many art galleries and quaint cafes , cultural centres, and traditional restaurants. The coin museum and stamp museum have many items on display. Every house had an open central courtyard, reminding me of our own village houses near Mangalore.
The art and music festival in these settings gave a quaint entertaining feeling of joy to all the participants. It was the only time I saw this place crowded with people.
So this is how the wealthy people used to live in ancient times. Though the roads were narrow and the exteriors seemed plain, the beauty of the interiors of the house could be an unforgettable experience, as most of the houses have retained the old word type of decor.
The mosque is impressive and looks beautiful both by day and night. In the late 1800’s when Dubai was just a wild place of date plantations, the settlements for trading in textiles and other goods happened in this area that was enclosed with a wall. A part of the wall made of gypsum and coral is still preserved as a mute testimony to the changing landscape of Dubai. I saw another part of this wall at the end of the textile souk near the Dubai creek.
Who knew that this place would be surrounded by glass facades of swanky high rise buildings? Al Fahidi Historical District, I love your character and your old world charm. That I why I had chosen to stay closeby. It is a pleasure to take my guests to feel the warmth of you! I will learn more about you as I come there again and again!
So what place made you smile today?
Be thankful for the places that make you smile!
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