Luck smiled now at me, as I finally got to visit the city of Nawabs – Lucknow
We were members of a wedding party, staying at a swanky place, yet I did ensure that we got at least one whole day for sightseeing and of course shopping!
Inspite of the hot sun, we entered one of the most famous places in Lucknow called the Bara imambara. A rare sight was to see the tomb of both the Nawab and the architect of the building next to each other below the main hall. And it was surprisingly cool inside with it’s 15 ft thick walls.
The three halls had what looked like domed shaped high roofs, aptly called Chinese plate ceiling, Persian tray ceiling and Indian musk melon ceiling! These dome like ceilings are actually just a flat terrace on top. They are constructed without any support from the middle, in the days of absence of metal rods and local material like mixture of calcium hydroxide (chunna) , coal, ash, red mud, bel fruit, gum was used to give strong support at the sides.
There were provisions for Candle holders around the room, the light of which would be reflected in the many mirrors kept at strategic points.
The Imambara is built in most cities in memory of Imam Hussain who is the grandson of prophet Mohammed, and it is from here that the devout Muslims pray, have sessions and processions, especially during the time of Muharrom.
The construction of this place was started in 1784, initially to provide work to the locals during the time of the famine. It is said that what was built by the workers in the day time was broken by the night to ensure continuous work for all and the whole structure was completed within 11 years.
There is a saying called ‘Walls have ears’ and this is literally true at this Imambara as what is whispered in one end of along corridor is clearly heard in the other end of the building, – such is the fantastic acoustics of this structure.
This place is famous for its bhool bhulaiya -the labyrinth of steps and passages at the sides and roof level. There are many windows with slopes for light cross ventilation, and secret lookout points having amazing joints and arches in the ceilings where where the weight of the four passages are divided and joined. This place is famous for its maze of passages and I would surely get lost, if not for the jovial guide who passionately showed us around. The light and wind circulation in the maze made us feel as if we were in the air conditioned comfort of free flowing cool air.
Whispers also were carried through long corridor by the circulating wind in the passages. The sound of a lighting a match at one corner is clearly heard at another corner of the building.
It was astounding how the middle portion of the huge ceiling seemed unsupported by pillars and the whole weight was divided in the side walls.
Our next stop was the Bauli or the step well. The beauty is that in all seasons there is water always filled inside the well. We could see that the well seemed to be of 3 storeys depth, yet also had construction of the same height of 3 storeys above it.
The step well had secret points where reflections of people entering the well gate was clearly visible to insiders who could then be easily hiddenand throw arrows from other secret points at their enemeies! This was their version of a CCTV, by seeing the reflection in water. Besides this too had many secret pathways to go in and out of the place.
We walked past the sprawling gardens, and the huge mosque and the sides and made our way to our next stop -the Chota imambara
Though smaller in size this was more ornately decorated. This was also made by the Lucknow Nawab Ali shah with exquisite Chandeliers from all around the world, with provisions for lighting candles in those times when there was no electricity. There was a also a high silver seat, where the priest sits to give his discourse to the devotees.
At the entrance were two statues of ladies holding chains, which could act like a lightning conductor in case of bad weather. We also saw a fish shaped structure which was capable of moving in the direction of the wind.
On one side of the courtyard gardens was the Badshahs daughters tomb which seemed like a copy of Taj mahal
also made by local material like Chunna and spice flours
Opposite to that was another structure that tried to be it’s mirror image in front of it and is now used as a museum
Our next visit was to the Hamaam or the bathing place for the Nawabs and the other royal ladies.
There was provision for runningHot and cold water which could be mixed and could be free flowing from below also from above. We saw the tandoori put underneath the bath for ensuring hot water.
There was also a Secret passage for badshah to enter and exit. We saw the well outside, where sometimes
Rose petals were put in for perfumed water. Also there was a hand wheel that had to be manually operated to pump it in water into the baths.
We then had to visit the beautiful looking ancient, tallest clock tower in the country.
Our next stop was the Rumi Darwaza, and ornately carved gate to ancient Lucknow which has one entrance on one side and three entrances on the other. This is one of the most famous symbols of Lucknow city.
We had time for a relaxed lunch with friends at the Royal cafe at the city centre called Cannought place. The ongoing metro work ensured traffic snarls, which was worth going through for the authentic food that was served to us. We just had to sample the famous Lucknow cuisine, the chaats, the kababs, the biryanis, the exotic kulfis and deserts.
I had just enough time to visit Ada for designer Lucknow chikanwork embroidered fabrics, and do lots of clothes shopping at another place near the airport.
A close relative used to visit Lucknow often and I kept postponing my visit for years, so finally I was grateful with a smile for this long overdue visit to Lucknow.
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